1. Never push back dry cuticles. Doing so can crack polish at
the base, which leads to chipping, says New York City celebrity nail pro
Deborah Lippmann, who offers tips like this in her master class, held
at upscale department stores. But if you're about to change your polish,
you don't want any cuticle skin on the nail's surface (it can interfere
with your base coat) — so loosen ragged edges by rubbing in a softening
cream. Then gently nudge cuticles back with an orangewood stick.
2. Don't soak fingertips. There's no real reason to do so (at
salons, it's just part of the pampering), and, says Tom Bachick,
executive vice president of the Young Nails Company, it can actually
have a negative effect: When you soak your nails, they absorb water,
which temporarily puffs them up — but they revert to their normal shape
when the water evaporates. This expansion and contraction is the top
cause of chipping, peeling, and cracking of polish, says Bachick
3. Get the surface clean, clean, clean. Any traces of
moisture, dust, or leftover enamel will get in the way of new-polish
adhesion. To pave the way for true staying power, drizzle an old
toothbrush with hand soap; then use it to "get into the corners and
under nail tips, where oil — the great enemy — may be hiding," suggests
Jan Arnold, cofounder of Creative Nail Design. (Steer clear of
lanolin-based soaps, which interfere with adhesion.) Then swipe on an
acetone polish remover to temporarily dehydrate the nail plate.
4. Shape up. "To maximize nail strength, tips should be
rounded and corners left somewhat square," says Robyn Gmyrek, M.D., an
assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Columbia University, in
New York City. Filing is healthier than clipping, which can crack the
nail plate. Use a fine-grit nail file and work in one direction. "Filing
back and forth with an abrasive board will cause the nail's delicate
keratin layers to peel away from each other," says Elsbeth Schuetz,
international educator for Orly.
5. Apply a base coat (no, it's not just a marketing ploy). Not
only does a bottom layer give lacquer something to latch on to, says
chemist Doug Schoon, vice president of research and development for
Creative Nail Design, but studies show that a base coat sticks to nails
better than polish does. For uneven nail surfaces, choose a base that
also smooths out roughness.
6. Once lacquer is on, seal it with a slow-setting topcoat.
Quick-dry kinds are certainly appealing, but they evaporate so fast,
they leave polish soft, mushy, and prone to denting. A slower-acting
topcoat leaves a harder, more protective finish. To speed things up
without sacrificing protection, use a drying oil or spray over your
topcoat.
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